Retz

Retz – Histrotical Background

In the 11th century, the Babenbergs received these lands from the King of Bohemia, and they established a settlement originally named Rezze in the area, which was already functioning around 1180. By 1300, the settlement had developed into a planned town on sparsely populated land. The location of the town was not coincidental; the important Rittsteig – trade route between Krems on the Danube in Austria and Znojmo in Bohemia passed through here.

Religious Hub

During the interregnum (1254-1273), the Counts of Hardegg acquired the right to collect tolls and built a castle. After the death of the last Count of Hardegg, his widow married Berchtold of Rabenswalde. Berchtold moved the capital of his county from Hardegg Castle to Retz. It was Berchtold who invited the Dominicans to the town, where they built their church, which is still visible today.

Imperial Privileges

In 1458, Emperor Frederick III granted Michael of Maidburg, the last Count of Hardegg, exceptional rights to trade in salt, grain and wine. After the count’s death, the city and castle of Retz came under imperial control, according to a previous agreement, which gave Retz the status of an independent city with autonomous jurisdiction. The Hungarian army captured Retz in 1486. King Matthias Corvinus of Hungary restored the trading privileges of the town after conquering it, marking the beginning of the construction of the multi-level central wine cellars in Retz.

The Thirty Years’ War

Between 1618 and 1648, Europe witnessed the Thirty Years’ War, a conflict that started as a clash between the Catholic Habsburgs and Protestants but soon evolved into a territorial struggle involving nations from across the continent. Retz, a predominantly Protestant town, found itself directly affected. Initially, imperial forces attacked Retz in their fight against the Protestants. Then, in 1645, the Swedes besieged the city, holding it under occupation for six months. The residents of Retz erected the “Swedish Cross” as a memorial to those events.

City Gate

The Nalbertor – and its counterpart, the Znaimertor, have been key to the defense of Retz in Lower Austria for many years. Crafted around the year 1300, these city gates have seen a lot of history, including the 15th-century Hussite invasions and the War of the Spanish Succession in the 1700s. In wartime and periods of unrest, the towers had important roles as defensive structures, and they also housed prisons and places for executions. Today, the Nalbertor remains a testament to Retz’s eventful history.

Renaissance House

The Sgraffito House – in 1546, the corner house at Hauptplatz/Kremserstrasse became the property of iron trader Augustinus Resch, a legacy from his father-in-law, Linhard Radler. Renowned for his integrity, Resch fulfilled the roles of tax collector and town judge until he passed away in 1580. The property, later known as the Sgraffito House, passed to his son-in-law, Albert Hofman. Decorated with the sgraffito technique, possibly during Resch’s ownership, the house’s shift from biblical to Greek motifs may hint at Protestant sympathies, though his religious beliefs remain a mystery. The house endured significant damage in 1620 and stood neglected for four decades before the town claimed it. Ferdinand Heilmann uncovered the sgraffito in 1928, and Anton Resch safeguarded previous drawings and records in 1933. Craftsmen applied the sgraffito technique, an Italian import, with exceptional skill, highlighting the building’s Renaissance flair.

Column

The Holy Trinity Column – stands in Retz’s central square as a grand symbol of hope and relief for Austria. After the Thirty Years’ War, the people of Retz wanted to mark the new era with something special. They took inspiration from Munich and built this column in 1744. Jakob Barth, a local artist, designed it, and Retz sculptors Ferdinand Steinböck and Philipp Sturm worked on the intricate stone details. This column honors saints like John of Nepomuk, Florian, and Placidus, and also the Virgin Mary. It’s not just a religious icon; it represents a fresh start and a shift in politics too.

Pillory

Pillory – five centuries ago, the town of Retz placed a pillory in the market square. This acted as a sign of the town’s authority and market rights, starting around the year 1400. The town acquired a new sandstone pillory in 1561. Over time, as the community became more compassionate, the use of the pillory declined. Finally, in 1776, Empress Maria Theresa issued a decree that abolished the practice of punishing offenders with torture.

The Verderberhaus – a standout set of buildings in Retz’s main square, in Lower Austria. It mixes styles from the Venetian Renaissance with Gothic touches. These buildings date back to the 1500s when people turned three Gothic houses into a stylish townhouse. In 1583, the leader of the renovation was Hanns Fierenz von Goerz, who made sure it got its special look. The name “Verderberhaus” comes from the Gottscheer merchants who came to Retz in the 1800s. It’s not an old city gate, but it has cool design details that make people want to see it. One interesting part is the frieze, which has faces that seem to frown at the street, a nod to old Celtic ways.

The Town Hall – is a historic building that was originally a Gothic chapel destroyed by the Hussites. Reconstructed in the 16th century, it combines both religious and administrative functions. Its 57.3 metre high tower, rebuilt in the Renaissance style, dominates the town. The chapel in the Town Hall has been modified several times but has retained its original function. As a witness to history, the building has undergone numerous renovations, including the modernisation of the tower and the chapel’s interior.

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Retz Cellars – Founded in the 13th century, Retz quickly rose to fame as a wine trading centre, taking advantage of its strategic location. Overcoming challenges such as destruction by the Hussites, it gained imperial trading privileges in 1458, which enhanced its winemaking reputation. Retz’s cellars, which are up to 20 metres deep, were perfect for storing wine. During the Second World War, there were plans to convert the cellars for the production of aircraft, but these fell through due to difficulties in regulating the conditions. It’s a must see during your Trip from Vienna by Public Transport. Please, remember to buy NOE-Card and to book in advacne.

The Znojmo Gate – or Znaim Gate is a symbol of Retz’s rich past, with its medieval history of defence and trade. Built around 1300, it served as a vital entry point alongside the Nalbert Gate, reflecting Retz’s bustling commercial scene. Throughout history, it has withstood sieges such as the Hussite raids and the Swedish invasion, each of which left its mark on the gate and prompted adaptations in military strategy. Despite its resilience, the gate lost out to the changing tides of the 19th century, when fortified towns became less important. However, its significance remained, prompting restoration efforts in the 20th century. Today, the Znojmo Gate stands tall, a poignant reminder of Retz’s enduring heritage and the era when fortified walls defined European cities.

The Civic Hospital – was founded before 1279 by Count Hardegger next to the parish church. In 1467 it was rebuilt into a late Gothic chapel within the city walls near the Znojmo Gate. The chapel was later rebuilt in Baroque style and closed in 1798 as part of Emperor Joseph II’s religious reforms. The building subsequently served a variety of purposes, including a theatre hall, a savings bank, a municipal office and a municipal school. Since 1948 it has housed the collections of the Local History Museum.

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The Parish Church of St. Stephen – dating back to the 12th century, has a complex history. Originally Romanesque, it was destroyed during the Hussite invasion in 1425. Rebuilt in the 15th century, it later burned down. The current Baroque church, constructed between 1727 and 1728, incorporates elements of the Gothic structure. Prominent tower, Baroque altar, 1728 pulpit, and Holy Sepulchre chapel distinguish the church. A Baroque crypt beneath the church contains murals depicting the Crucifixion, adding to its historical and artistic significance.

The Dominican Church – together with the adjacent monastery, was founded around 1279 by Berchthold of Rabenswalde and Wilbirgis. Due to a lack of space within the city limits, a site was chosen on the outskirts, on the slope of the Gollitsch, where the buildings could be protected by thick stone walls. The church, the oldest three-nave hall church in Austria, was also built around 1279. Its interior is characterised by the innovative use of sloping pillar surfaces and the introduction of oriel profiles, a breakthrough for the time. A vaulted gallery was added in the 14th century, and the monastery was renovated in the 18th century with the addition of the east and south wings above the city walls.

Althof Retz – the castle is a relic from a time before the town was founded. On the site of present-day Retz there was a building called Freihof – a place where tolls were collected on the Wine Route. To protect this building, the Counts of Hardegg built a castle – the Althof Retz. It was destroyed by the Hussite invasion in 1425. In the 16th century the castle was transformed into a farm. In front of the castle, on the side of the vineyards, there is a moat, which has always been dry. Currently, in the Althof one may enjoy a hotel to extend Trip from Vienna by Public Transport for a couple of days.

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Outside the Town

Windmill – erected in 1772, the Retzer Windmill has not only survived as one of the few working windmills in Austria, but has also become an icon of progress and perseverance. Situated on a picturesque hill stretching between Retz and Manhartsberg, the mill experienced restoration after lightning damage in 1893 and was brought back to life in 2010. It now serves as a popular tourist spot, being a living testimony to the long milling tradition in the Weinviertel. It was the scarcity of suitable streams to power water mills that inspired the creation of windmills. The Retzer windmill, with its three levels of grinding, was the last working windmill in the region. It is a perfect place for Trip from Vienna by Public Transport – please, check time of guided tours before.

The Calvary – is a monument with a rich history and unique characteristics. It was founded on the basis of a contract dated 15 September 1726, thanks to the initiative of Jakob Seer from Eggenburg. Seer created a group of sculptures depicting the Crucifixion scene, in which the main figures are Jesus Christ, two thieves, St Magdalene, Mary and John. The Calvary ensemble in Retz is distinguished not only by the standard Stations of the Cross, but also by a unique arrangement that reflects Jesus’ farewell to his mother, alluding to the mysteries of the Sorrowful Rosary. This rare arrangement makes the Calvary of Retz unique. In addition, the Holy Sepulchre, the final point of the Calvary, contains impressive sandstone sculptures coated with an ivory-like material. Their detail and artistic workmanship, together with the dynamic poses of the figures, evoke deep admiration and strong emotions in the observer.

Soldiers’ Cemetery – as you leave the town you will find a large cross marking the Soldiers’ Cemetery. This is the final resting place of 848 people who died in the Second World War and 29 people from the First World War, whose remains were moved here in 1978. The cemetery covers an area of 5,000 square metres and is integrated into the natural moorland landscape.

Outside the City
Trip from Vienna
by Public Transport

The Schußbergmarter – is a historical monument dating from 1744, located on the route between Retz and Oberretzbach in Lower Austria. It is decorated with 18th-century stone reliefs and is located on the Wűnschelrutenradweg cycle route, making it an important historical and geomantic feature in the area. Although there are no details about its founder or the motives for its construction, the monument remains an important reference point for the region.

Gupferter Berg – Legend claims Gupferter Berg as Attila the Hun’s final resting place, where the Huns allegedly hid his remains in three coffins of gold, silver, and iron. Treasure hunters, intrigued by this tale, formed a joint-stock company for excavation in the nineteenth century but found only decayed tree trunks and bones. Subsequent archaeological efforts by Ignaz Spöttl revealed stone structures and medieval ceramics but no legendary treasures.

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